Red List Comment Submission

Commenting on: Flax, hemp and nettle (bast fibre) processing

Section one - About you

Section two - Description of the craft

If you are commenting on an existing craft, please select it here and skip the next two questions

Please enter the name of the craft you would like us to add here.

If this is a new craft type please select the most suitable category

Please identify country, region, county or town

Please identify country, region, county or town

Please identify an era/century/approximate historic period.

Heritage Crafts uses a system of four categories of risk to assess the viability of heritage crafts. A heritage craft is considered to be viable if there are sufficient craftspeople to transmit the craft skills to the next generation. For more information on definitions see http://heritagecrafts.org.uk/redlist/categories-of-risk/

Section three - Current numbers of those practising the craft in the UK

People earning their main craft income from this craft (selling, commissions, conservation/ restoration and/or teaching).

People practicing this craft commercially (selling, commissions, conservation/restoration and/or teaching) but as less than half of their income.

People acquiring skills in order to become a professional in this craft, they probably have to work under supervision even if they are earning money while training.

People whose knowledge and ability is at a level of the most skilled practitioners of this craft.

People who do not intend to practice this craft professionally or at the highest level.

Section four - Issues affecting the viability of the craft

Existing content:
  • Market issues: There is a demand for UK made linen but there are issues around processing and the supply chain. The supply chain isn’t yet functioning, so local farmers are not yet growing on any scale. Any UK made linen is likely to be higher in cost, this needs to be carefully considered and alternative business methods developed to support local production.
  • Supply of raw materials, allied materials and tools: Getting flax seed is an issue as it is imported and sold under licence. Machinery and equipment are obsolete and there are issues around maintenance and spares. Mallon linen and others will often have to refurbish, invent or adapt tools to do the job. For example, Mallon Linen are retting flax in recycled cheese vat.
  • Small business issues: There is a lot of work in setting up a small business to do this process.
  • Ageing workforce: In Northern Ireland much of the knowledge is still held within the older generation. The people with working memory of flax and linen production are now quite elderly. In the rest of the UK this knowledge was lost some time ago.
  • Legislative issues: Flax seed is by legislation classed as an agricultural crop and therefore new or even heritage varieties would have to undergo testing etc. to be sold.  Seeds are also subject to plant breeders’ rights which protects them from un-authorised reselling or packaging.
  • Global and geopolitical issues: Brexit has made importing seed more difficult

Positive developments:

  • Increased awareness of hemp, flax and nettle fibres: There has been a great deal of interest in hemp and flax growing in recent years both as a craft and as a method of working towards a more sustainable future. Flax growing is a particularly good way of introducing people to natural fibres and even the shorter varieties primarily produced for edible seed do give fibre.
  • Sustainable fibre production: Hemp and flax are both considered to be sustainable fibres, using considerably less water and pesticides than cotton. They are also well suited to the UK climate and could reduce dependence on imported textile fibres.
  • Opportunities for innovation: There has been a resurgence in interest by universities and other researchers into the potential for using hemp and flax in a wide range of applications including composite materials and engineering. Some of these, such as Hempcrete, are now widely available.

e.g. lack of qualifications, funding for training etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. lack of demand for products/skills etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

Tick the box if there are difficulties with the supply of raw materials, allied materials or tools

If yes, please describe the issues below

i.e. issues around running any small business, not just crafts

If yes, please describe the issues below

Is the main workforce made up of people who are approaching retirement age?

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. legal restrictions on materials, health and safety etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. Brexit, Covid-19, conflict

If yes, please describe the issues below

Please describe any other issues

Section five - Current Initiatives to preserve craft skills

Please describe any UK projects or schemes

Section six - Main players in the craft – please tell us who you know about

Please list any known practitioners of this craft — add a row item for each person or business and complete the fields to the best of your knowledge. To get started click the `Add practitioner` button below.

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Add practitioner

Section seven - Optional additional information

It may include when and where the craft developed, how it has changed over time, etc.

e.g. festivals, religious celebrations, agricultural practices, music, dance etc.

e.g. religious, ethnic, social class. Please give an overview of the techniques involved in the craft.

This may involve different materials, techniques, styles or finished products.

e.g. books, websites etc.