Red List Comment Submission

Commenting on: Shoe and boot making (handsewn)

Section one - About you

Section two - Description of the craft

If you are commenting on an existing craft, please select it here and skip the next two questions

Please enter the name of the craft you would like us to add here.

If this is a new craft type please select the most suitable category

Please identify country, region, county or town

Please identify country, region, county or town

Please identify an era/century/approximate historic period.

Heritage Crafts uses a system of four categories of risk to assess the viability of heritage crafts. A heritage craft is considered to be viable if there are sufficient craftspeople to transmit the craft skills to the next generation. For more information on definitions see http://heritagecrafts.org.uk/redlist/categories-of-risk/

Section three - Current numbers of those practising the craft in the UK

People earning their main craft income from this craft (selling, commissions, conservation/ restoration and/or teaching).

People practicing this craft commercially (selling, commissions, conservation/restoration and/or teaching) but as less than half of their income.

People acquiring skills in order to become a professional in this craft, they probably have to work under supervision even if they are earning money while training.

People whose knowledge and ability is at a level of the most skilled practitioners of this craft.

People who do not intend to practice this craft professionally or at the highest level.

Section four - Issues affecting the viability of the craft

Existing content:
  • Training issues: The cost of training an apprentice is prohibitive (cost of wages, national insurance, trainer’s time, holidays, materials etc.)
  • Training issues: There are very few technical colleges which train ‘makers’ as opposed to ‘designers’ and there is very little financial support for those wanting to learn one-to-one at the bench or with a hands-on approach.
  • Training issues: Very few younger people are presented with a creative career as a viable option and there are few training opportunities and early career opportunities available
  • Market issues: There is  a market for bespoke handmade shoes but the role of the UK in this market has diminished in recent years.
  • Business issues: Small businesses and independent makers face a range of business challenges including  effective marketing, overheads, cashflow, visibility, finding customers etc.
  • Cost of raw materials: A significant issue for the craft is the high cost of good quality raw materials available in the UK.
  • Shortage of good quality tools: Shoe making and leatherworking tools are available but they are often not of a suitable quality for professional and high end makers.
  • External factors: These include rising inflation, alongside higher material and production costs; the removal of VAT refunds for tourists; customs delays and higher import/export duties; additionally there is growing ethical scrutiny of supply chains putting pressure on transparency and responsible sourcing.
  • Lack of understanding of the craft due to online misinformation: Shoes and shoe making are at risk from misinformation spread through social media and YouTube. This misinformation often misrepresents the extensive training needed to master the craft; inaccurately depicts traditional techniques and processes and misuses ‘handmade’ and ‘handsewn’.  They can also perpetuate negative perceptions of leather leading to customer confusion and undermining trust in authentic craftsmanship.

e.g. lack of qualifications, funding for training etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. lack of demand for products/skills etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

Tick the box if there are difficulties with the supply of raw materials, allied materials or tools

If yes, please describe the issues below

i.e. issues around running any small business, not just crafts

If yes, please describe the issues below

Is the main workforce made up of people who are approaching retirement age?

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. legal restrictions on materials, health and safety etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. Brexit, Covid-19, conflict

If yes, please describe the issues below

Please describe any other issues

Section five - Current Initiatives to preserve craft skills

Please describe any UK projects or schemes

Section six - Main players in the craft – please tell us who you know about

Please list any known practitioners of this craft — add a row item for each person or business and complete the fields to the best of your knowledge. To get started click the `Add practitioner` button below.

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Section seven - Optional additional information

It may include when and where the craft developed, how it has changed over time, etc.

e.g. festivals, religious celebrations, agricultural practices, music, dance etc.

e.g. religious, ethnic, social class. Please give an overview of the techniques involved in the craft.

This may involve different materials, techniques, styles or finished products.

e.g. books, websites etc.