Red List Comment Submission

Commenting on: Kilt making

Section one - About you

Section two - Description of the craft

If you are commenting on an existing craft, please select it here and skip the next two questions

Please enter the name of the craft you would like us to add here.

If this is a new craft type please select the most suitable category

Please identify country, region, county or town

Please identify country, region, county or town

Please identify an era/century/approximate historic period.

Heritage Crafts uses a system of four categories of risk to assess the viability of heritage crafts. A heritage craft is considered to be viable if there are sufficient craftspeople to transmit the craft skills to the next generation. For more information on definitions see http://heritagecrafts.org.uk/redlist/categories-of-risk/

Section three - Current numbers of those practising the craft in the UK

People earning their main craft income from this craft (selling, commissions, conservation/ restoration and/or teaching).

People practicing this craft commercially (selling, commissions, conservation/restoration and/or teaching) but as less than half of their income.

People acquiring skills in order to become a professional in this craft, they probably have to work under supervision even if they are earning money while training.

People whose knowledge and ability is at a level of the most skilled practitioners of this craft.

People who do not intend to practice this craft professionally or at the highest level.

Section four - Issues affecting the viability of the craft

Existing content:
  • Lack of recognition for makers – most kilts are bought from kilt retailers, not directly from kilt makers. The skilled craftspeople work behind the scenes, are paid on a piece rate, and are often underpaid for the work that they do. The kiltmaker as a craftsperson is largely invisible. It is, therefore, difficult for makers to make a sustainable income and the pool of ‘timeserved’ skilled kiltmakers is declining.

  • Market issues – the demand for kilts is high and there are still plenty of people around the world who are prepared to invest in a hand tailored kilt as a one-off ‘lifetime’ purchase. However, they are unlikely to buy directly from a maker.

  • Market issues – a move towards cheaper machine made kilts and imported kilts has led to a rapid decline in skilled kiltmakers. In recent years more high profile retail businesses are turning to machine made kilts.

  • Threat to skills – whilst there are still a number of traditional kiltmakers still practising in Scotland, the standard of skills in making a made to measure bespoke hand stitched kilt could be under threat.
  • Threat to skills from lower cost manufacturing – Many kilts are made using machine stitching and non-traditional techniques that can make for a lower cost but also reduced quality garment. Over time this has diminished the craft of handmade, bespoke kilt making.
  • Training issues – many traditional kiltmakers are self-employed and can’t afford to train apprentices. In addition to this, traditionally kiltmaking was a secretive craft with makers often unwilling to pass on or share skills. This attitude is changing but it has left a legacy in that young people are unaware of the craft or don’t know how to access training.

  • Training issues – there are few places to train and very few apprenticeships available. However, there are some initiatives that have been set up by makers to teach the hand skills such as the Kiltmakery, The College of Master Kilt Makers, the Keith Kilt and Textile Centre, and the Edinburgh Kilt Academy. Most people who want to learn kiltmaking want to do it as a hobby or for friends and family, it can be a challenge to find people who want to make a career out of kiltmaking.

  • Ageing workforce – Many kiltmakers are close to retirement age, although there are some new young career kiltmakers coming through.

  • Ageing kiltmakers retiring due to COVID-19 – Some experienced makers gave up during the pandemic and will not return to kiltmaking, which has hastened the decline in numbers of craftspeople.

e.g. lack of qualifications, funding for training etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. lack of demand for products/skills etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

Tick the box if there are difficulties with the supply of raw materials, allied materials or tools

If yes, please describe the issues below

i.e. issues around running any small business, not just crafts

If yes, please describe the issues below

Is the main workforce made up of people who are approaching retirement age?

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. legal restrictions on materials, health and safety etc.

If yes, please describe the issues below

e.g. Brexit, Covid-19, conflict

If yes, please describe the issues below

Please describe any other issues

Section five - Current Initiatives to preserve craft skills

Please describe any UK projects or schemes

Section six - Main players in the craft – please tell us who you know about

Please list any known practitioners of this craft — add a row item for each person or business and complete the fields to the best of your knowledge. To get started click the `Add practitioner` button below.

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Section seven - Optional additional information

It may include when and where the craft developed, how it has changed over time, etc.

e.g. festivals, religious celebrations, agricultural practices, music, dance etc.

e.g. religious, ethnic, social class. Please give an overview of the techniques involved in the craft.

This may involve different materials, techniques, styles or finished products.

e.g. books, websites etc.