Meet a Maker: Edition 29

Meet Kitty Griffiths

1. What is your craft and how did you get into it?

I am a bespoke goldsmith, working in precious metals. I use colourful diamonds and carved gemstones, using traditional but playful stone setting styles to create a free spirited twist on classic fine jewellery.

I studied a Metalwork and Jewellery degree at Sheffield Hallam University, where my love of working in metal began. Sheffield was such an exciting hub of the metalwork industry and it was a great introduction into that world. Since graduating in 2013, I have worked within the trade for a number of bespoke jewellers and designers. Since honing my skills and knowledge, I now have my own business and brand, ‘Kitty Griffiths Jewellery’, based in the vibrant creative city of Brighton, on the south coast.

2. What is one interesting fact about you?

A passion of mine outside of creating jewellery is being in and around the ocean. I feel very lucky living in Brighton and having such close proximity to the sea. I love to swim all year round and surf when I can. Brighton isn’t know for its consistent waves, but I jump at the chance when my local spot gets a few waves!

I feel like the water, especially when it’s cold, is a real reset moment for me and it is a great way to clear my head. One of my mantras for life is ‘you never regret a sea swim’ which if I’m honest, I have to remind myself of that on the days when its looking grey or cold and it takes a little more persuasion. The full body tingle after is totally addictive!

3. How long have you been making?

I have been making in metal since starting university in 2010… I can’t believe that’s coming up to 15 years now! But I have always created and made with my hands since I was a child. Some of my earliest memories are stringing together beads to create bracelets.

I was very focused on art, drawing and painting throughout school. This later translated into working in 3D and into metal during my art foundation year, where I was lucky enough to have a workshop day in the jewellery department of Bucks New University… I was hooked!

4. Who are your favourite makers? 

I would say that my biggest admiration is for the work of René Lalique. He was a French jeweller and glass sculptor from the art nouveau era. His work is very organic, often including flowers, insects, human form and flowing motifs from nature. I was obsessed with his work whilst studying at university. It was a full circle moment when I went on a trip to Lisbon last year, combining a winter surf trip with some time to geek out on jewellery. I went to see Lalique’s work in the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, which holds a collection of almost 200 of his pieces.

It was incredible seeing some of the pieces I had only ever read about in books in real life. Some of them, like his Dragonfly-woman’ corsage, are massive! They were so much larger than I had imagined and it was incredible to be able to see the intricacies up close. I think the mix of carved glass and figures with precious metals, enamel and stone settings has definitely stuck with me and I can see the influences within my ‘Moonman’ pieces, combining carved gemstone faces with intricate stone settings.

Other than Lalique, I try not to be too influenced by makers and current trends as I try to stay as true to my own style and designs and inspirations as possible. Saying that though, I have defiantly picked up ways of working or making certain parts of my jewellery through the influence of the incredible jewellers and designers I have worked with through my career.

5. What is the most challenging skill/technique you learned in your craft?

I was first trained as a metal worker, making the jewellery mounts to hold precious stones. However, over the last few years I have been expanding my skills into stone setting using Air tools. Traditionally, stones are set by hand which requires a lot of strength, force and of course skill. There has been a massive leap in the art of stone setting, introducing tools and gravers that are powered by air compression which have really progressed the art. It has introduced a completely new approach to setting stones, offering better control over graver cuts and enabling the creation of intricate designs that would have been more difficult with traditional tools.

This is very fine and intricate work, done under a microscope and I feel like it has given me so much freedom to create my jewellery pieces from start to finish.

The skills I have learnt through stone setting are very transferable to engraving as there are similar techniques in creating bright cuts in metal and both skills use a similar set of tools. Engraving is something I have an interest in learning more about and it is something I am planning to explore more in my work. Incorporating intricate surface patterns would elevate my designs and bring a new element to experiment with.

Another direction I am keen to explore is learning to carve my own faces into the gemstones that I use. I currently source my stones from my trusted suppliers, however my future aim to create a signature style carved face, that will be synonymous with my designs and brand. This also aligns with my ethos and love of creating a piece of jewellery from start to finish. Carving my own stones would be incredible and the idea of learning a new dimension of the trade is very exciting to me.

6. What is your favourite part of your craft? 

I love starting a project with a melt up. The process of creating something out of precious metal that starts in its raw form, and ends up as a fine and polished finished piece is the magic for me. It’s pure alchemy! Being a part of the metal changing form and shape through forging and moulding the metal makes me feel very connected to this heritage craft as many of the tools and techniques I use have been used for centuries.

Another part of my craft that I have a huge passion for is teaching my evening jewellery classes. Passing on my knowledge and skills to other jewellers that are on their own jewellery making journey is so rewarding. I get such a buzz when students start to invest in themselves and start buying their own tools. It feels that I am a part of growing this craft and sparking a love and passion for it in others.

7. What project are you most proud of and why?

One of the pieces I am most proud of is my “Sol Ring”. It was an ongoing project for me that I picked up on and off when I had spare time from commissions or my employed work. I gem hunted the orange sapphire marquise stones years ago at a trade fair. I knew that I wanted them to eventually create the rays of a sun. I then sourced the carved face lemon quartz stone as the centre.

If I’m honest, it took me a while to invest in the gold. That’s one of the limitations I find when creating designs and pieces for stock… gold is such a high price, and always fluctuating. It’s such an investment to put into a design. Sometimes designs stay swirling around my head until I can invest in the materials to make them come to life!

8. If someone who knows nothing about you and your practice could know one thing, what would it be?

I think that its not commonly known that the jewellery industry is made up of multiple specific trades. Mounters, stone setters, engravers, polishers, casters, CAD designers are all different specialties that people devote their career to. It is usual for one piece of jewellery to go through multiple hands to become a finished piece.

As a crafts person who finds the magic in the process of making from start to finish, I feel devoted to expanding my skills and knowledge to be as involved in the full process as possible. I am a designer, maker and stone setter. So I get to see it through all of its stages.

I feel that it is important to me to create a deeply personal and intimate bespoke process with my customers. Learning their stories and the attachments and memories that these pieces will hold and pass on through generations to become their future family heirlooms.

For me it all comes back to jewellery being a symbol of attachment. Whether it is to people, places or memories. It is a way that we physically mark a time in peoples lives and the relationships, ceremonies and milestones we experience.

Learn more about Kitty