Heritage Crafts

Plume making

The making of woven horse hair and mounted feathers for military plumes.
CRITICALLY ENDANGERED
Status
Critical
Craft category
Other
Historic area of significance
From early Bronze Age worldwide
Area practiced currently
West London, Devon
Origin in the UK
Plumes were worn from the Bronze Age and were at their height in the late 18th Century in Britain.
Current No. of professionals (Main income)
1
Current No. of professionals (Side income)
1-5
Current No. of leisure makers
There will be re-enactors and living history enthusiasts making plumes.

History

Since the first cave man put a feather on his head, plumes have had a significant role in military costume. They are a key element in full dress military parades and inspections by dignitaries and royals, heavy horse decoration, weddings and funerals, and marching bands.

There are still currently around sixty different patterns of plume worn by the British Army.

The hackle is a clipped plume or short spray of coloured feathers that is attached to a military headdress, with different colours being associated with particular regiments. In the British Army and the armies of some Commonwealth countries, the hackle is worn by some infantry regiments, especially those designated as fusilier regiments and those with Scottish and Northern Irish origins.

Techniques

  • Weaving horse hair
  • Mounting and sewing feathers.

Local forms

Plumes are worn by many of the world’s armies from Ghana to Australia. There are still currently around sixty different patterns of plume worn by the British Army.

Sub-crafts

  • Dyeing horse hair and feathers
  • Metal component making

Issues affecting the viability

  • Market issues: Brexit has had an effect on orders with some copies being made overseas and imported by U.K. based uniform makers.
  • Training: There are no established training routes for plume making.
  • Raw materials: Some feathers are subject to concerns around ethical sourcing. Military plumes made today will use feathers that are a by-product of food production and other cruelty-free sources.
  • Raw materials: There is only one remaining feather dyer and manufacturer in the UK
  • Loss of skills: There are so few people remaining with the skills that there is significant risk that these skills will not be passed on to the next generation.

Training organisations

There are no formal training options for plume making. In house training is given to new employees at existing businesses.

Craftspeople currently known

  • Louis Chalmers, The Plumery – The Plumery manufactures the entire range of the British Armies plumes in humanely gathered horse hair, yak, wool and feather, along with the Lance Cap and supporting metalwork.
  • Jaffé et Fils – Jaffe et Fils Ltd dye and make feather plumes from raw materials. Jaffe also dye horsehair.

References

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hackle

Red List informants 2025

Our thanks go to our 2025 informants:

  • Benjamin Jaffe – Jaffe et Fils Ltd

We consult with a wide range of practitioners and organisations to review and update the Red List. Some choose to remain anonymous but all feedback is taken into account.

If you would like to suggest any changes or additions to this page please contact us here

National Lottery Heritage Fund
Swire Charitable Trust
The Royal Mint
Pilgrim Trust
Maxwell/Hanrahan Foundation
William Grant Foundation

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