The kilt started off as a blanket-like garment that was folded at the back, held at the waist with a belt with the remainder of the cloth falling back or wrapped around the shoulders/ over the head for protection. When cold it could be used as a blanket.
The wearing of Highland dress was banned by the British Government (as well as the wearing of arms) with the Dress act of 1746 in an attempt to bring the Highland clans under control after the Jacobite Risings. However it was during this 36 years of forbidden kilt wearing that the military (who could still wear it) developed the garment into a more fitting and tailored garment. The Victorians continued to develop tartan and kilts to eventually becoming the eight yard hand tailored garment we know today.
Kilts are associated with Scottish Highland dancing, with Scottish pipe bands, with the military and is the traditional dress for weddings and other celebrations. The kilt is an icon of Scottish culture and heritage and it is still an important symbol of family and being a Scot.
In Scotland many men get a kilt for their 21st birthday, their graduation, their wedding, worn at Hogmanay, and at important occasions throughout their lives. They are made for life.
Many Americans and Europeans, Australians, New Zealanders, Scandinavians and sometimes Africans with Scottish ancestry will make a point of purchasing a kilt at some point in their lives. They are not associated with any particular social class or religion; it’s an inclusive garment with tartans to reflect a person’s family name, beliefs, hometown, etc.
Kilts come in a wide variety of styles, differing by function, origin, and construction.
Traditional Kilts – These include the Great Kilt(féileadh-mór) – a large, full-length wool garment worn in the 16th–18th centuries, pleated and belted around the body – and the little kilt (féileadh-beag) with stitched wide box pleats that was first seen around 1780. This is closest to the kilt we know today.
Military Kilts – including piper’s kilts, dress kilts and the military kilts worn by Scottish and Irish regiments.
Contemporary kilts – Kilts have been widely adapted to modern use and now come in a range of different styles and for different activities including dance and sports. Contemporary kilts from alternative materials have gained some popularity such as wool tweed or even alternative fibres such as cotton.
Lack of recognition for makers – most kilts are bought from kilt retailers, not directly from kilt makers. The skilled craftspeople work behind the scenes, are paid on a piece rate, and are often underpaid for the work that they do. The kiltmaker as a craftsperson is largely invisible. It is, therefore, difficult for makers to make a sustainable income and the pool of ‘timeserved’ skilled kiltmakers is declining.
Market issues – the demand for kilts is high and there are still plenty of people around the world who are prepared to invest in a hand tailored kilt as a one-off ‘lifetime’ purchase. However, they are unlikely to buy directly from a maker.
Market issues – a move towards cheaper machine made kilts and imported kilts has led to a rapid decline in skilled kiltmakers. In recent years more high profile retail businesses are turning to machine made kilts.
Threat to skills – whilst there are still a number of traditional kiltmakers still practising in Scotland, the standard of skills in making a made to measure bespoke hand stitched kilt could be under threat.
Training issues – many traditional kiltmakers are self-employed and can’t afford to train apprentices. In addition to this, traditionally kiltmaking was a secretive craft with makers often unwilling to pass on or share skills. This attitude is changing but it has left a legacy in that young people are unaware of the craft or don’t know how to access training.
Training issues – there are few places to train and very few apprenticeships available. However, there are some initiatives that have been set up by makers to teach the hand skills such as the Kiltmakery, The College of Master Kilt Makers, the Keith Kilt and Textile Centre, and the Edinburgh Kilt Academy. Most people who want to learn kiltmaking want to do it as a hobby or for friends and family, it can be a challenge to find people who want to make a career out of kiltmaking.
Ageing workforce – Many kiltmakers are close to retirement age, although there are some new young career kiltmakers coming through.
Ageing kiltmakers retiring due to COVID-19 – Some experienced makers gave up during the pandemic and will not return to kiltmaking, which has hastened the decline in numbers of craftspeople.
There are a number of organisations offering training in kilt making.
Businesses employing two or more makers:
Traditionally, kiltmaking is a craft that is uniquely linked to a nation’s identity and therefore evokes a lot of emotion. It produces a product that is meant to last a lifetime and which can be passed down generations, and a lot of the work kiltmakers do are repairs and resizing of kilts. Repairing, observing and learning from the work of kiltmakers of the past is one of the most exciting parts of the work. Many leave marks, dates and names under the lining to be discovered.
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