Heritage Crafts

Metal thread making

The making of metal threads for embroidery.
CRITICALLY ENDANGERED
Status
Critical
Craft category
Metal, Textile
Area practiced currently
Warwickshire, West Sussex
Current No. of professionals (Main income)
1-5
Current No. of professionals (Side income)
0
Current No. of trainees
1
Current total No. of serious amateur makers
0
Current No. of leisure makers
0

History

Metallic embroidery threads are made using round or flattened wire, usually gold, silver or copper, which may or may not have a core of another material. Machines are used to plait and combine the wire.

Metallic threads are used for embroidery, particularly in historical costumes, the theatre, and for insignia. The Royal School of Needlework’s training in goldwork also provides a big market.

Techniques

The manufacturing process combines traditional techniques with meticulous craftsmanship to create a variety of metal threads, including smooth purl, rough purl, pearl purl, and bullion.

The production begins with the selection of metals such as gold, silver, or copper. These metals are drawn into fine wires by passing them through dies to achieve the desired thickness. The wires are then flattened using specialized machinery, which adjusts tension and thickness through manual settings, often involving weights.

For threads like passing thread, a core material—typically silk or nylon—is wrapped with the flattened metal wire. This wrapping is performed on machines that have been in use for decades, requiring skilled manual adjustments to ensure precision.

In the creation of purl threads, the metal wire is coiled into a spring-like shape by winding it around a needle or rod. This process, known as “purling,” results in different types of purl threads, such as smooth purl and rough purl, depending on the specific techniques and tools used.

The machinery employed in these processes is notably traditional, with some equipment being over a century old. The process of metal thread making is deeply rooted in traditional methods, requiring a high level of skill and attention to detail to produce threads that are esteemed by embroiderers worldwide.

Sub-crafts

Related crafts

  • Goldwork embroidery
  • Military insignia
  • Historical costume

Issues affecting the viability

  • Training issues: there are very few trainees in the craft.
  • Training issues/business issues: the cost of training an apprentice and their wages can be prohibitive for a small business
  • Recruitment issues: Succession planning and replacing skilled staff can be difficult in a small business with limited capacity for training. There is a significant risk that skills will be lost when current staff retire.
  • Market issues: competition from low-wage economies in Pakistan and India.

Support organisations

Training organisations

There are no formal training opportunities in metal thread making. Training would usually happen on the job at one of the existing companies.

Craftspeople currently known

  • Benton & Johnson (part of Toye, Kenning and Spencer), 1 full time trainee. 1 person working 3 days a week with a view to retiring soon. Main trainer with knowledge is Neil Halford with over 30 years experience.
  • Golden Threads – This has been recently taken over by Alec Birdwood who has been trained in metal thread manufacture by William Kentish Barnes.

Other information

  • Status: Metal thread making has always been a very small industry, but while the numbers involved are small the two firms are both doing well.

References

Bevan, Katy, ‘Gold Standard’Selvedge, 79, November/December 2017:  P30 – p33

Article on Toye, Kenning & Spencer: Wallop, Harry (8 April 2012). “A trip back in time to our industrial heritage at Toye, Kenning & Spencer”The Daily Telegraph. London, UK.

A tour of the Benton & Johnson factory by Catherine of Hill View Embroidery

Video clip of the Toye, Kenning & Spencer Factory in 2014: From Hidden Histories. Britains oldest Family businesses. Episode 2 of 3:  Toye the Medal Maker. 2014. BBC.

Account of conservation of a piece of medieval goldwork, with great information about threads and techniques: Zenzie Tinker, 2016.

Red List informants 2025

Our thanks go to our 2025 informants:

  • Benton & Johnson part of Toye Kenning & Spencer
  • Alec Birdwood, Golden Threads
  • Hanny Newton

We consult with a wide range of practitioners and organisations to review and update the Red List. Some choose to remain anonymous but all feedback is taken into account.

If you would like to suggest any changes or additions to this page please contact us here

National Lottery Heritage Fund
Swire Charitable Trust
The Royal Mint
Pilgrim Trust
Maxwell/Hanrahan Foundation
William Grant Foundation

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