Lapidary

From the Gem Society website: 

Drilling, one of the first of the lapidary arts, traces its roots back almost 1,000,000 years ago, when people first learned that rocks could be broken or fractured. This same knowledge of relative hardness led to bruting, the shaping of a gem specimen by rubbing one mineral against another harder mineral. The slow and tedious practice of bruting was used for centuries until more refined techniques were introduced. Later, these stone fragments began to be viewed in terms of possible alterations for artistic or adornment purposes. 

By 3,000 B. C., lapidary skills had been developed to such a level that cylinders made of serpentine, were commonplace. Analysis of seals of the early Bronze age uncovered in ancient Mesopotamia show remarkable skill and tool control by the gemcutters; highly valued, the seals were worn as amulets that could be removed quickly and pressed into a clay tablet. 

Artifacts demonstrate that lapidaries had conquered the challenges of sawing, chipping, drilling, polishing and faceting before the time of Christ. Centuries before however, the Chinese knew how to work the tough green material they called yu and which we call jade. It was also a sacred stone to the Aztecs of North America as well as the Maoris of New Zealand. The tribes of the Swiss Lake District also worked jade.

The discover of quartz fascinated stone workers, providing an explosion of varied, rich colors and, although their hardness made them a more difficult to work than the softer stones, many different cultures sought them not for their lush cosmetic values but for mystic purposes as well. Amber is considered to be one of the earliest stones to be used in jewelry, with its lightweight, easily drilled, and features pleasing warm color. Turquoise also has a long history in jewellery, being easily worked as a relatively soft stone. Glass, too, has a long lapidary history, with its initial use serving as an imitation gemstone. 

Early Indian literature cites bead and sphere cutting. The more famous transparent gems, including ruby, sapphire, spinel, emerald and garnet all appear in early jewellery in India, Burma, Sri Lanka, (Ceylon), Persia, (Iran). While not well known, many advances in faceting can be attributed to the Islamic Period. 

Developments in Europe: 

The practice of cutting gemstones to a specific configuration along with the refinements of development of diamond-cutting techniques, were established in Europe. The techniques of diamond splitting, done to obtain natural octahedral forms of the crystal, was known in Gaul and Germany. By about 1380, a method of true diamond cutting was practiced in France.

The 1400s saw important breakthroughs, with the development of grinding wheels and better rock polishing techniques. Generally acknowledged as the Father of Modern Diamond Cutting, Louis de Berquen, of Bruges, Flanders is best known for his introduction in around 1476 of absolute symmetry, improvements in the polishing process, and the development of the pendeloque shape. The age of the diamond had truly arrived within France and Europe. 

Throughout the 17th Century, the Rose cut found primary use as ornamentation on costumes, scabbards, sword hilts, harness trappings, epaulettes, dishes, candlesticks, boxes, etc. Though controversy exists over whether it had Western origin as many sources believe its development was Indian and then brought to Europe by Venetian merchants, with Indian cutters producing the famous Koh-i-Nur, (Mountain of Light).

In the 19th Century, more fully rounded diamonds were being produced. These gradually became known as Old European Cuts. Compared to modern cutting practices, they were characterized by small tables, large culets, and greater depth. In addition, English cutters opted for thinner girdles than Dutch cutters. For years, it was this difference that marked a stone’s cutting origin. Thus, when viewing an Old European cut, inspect the girdle: its thickness often reflects English or Dutch cutting.

• Diamond cutting – a highly specialised area of gem cutting which involves shaping a diamond from a rough stone into a faceted gem. Cutting diamond requires specialised knowledge, tools, equipment, and techniques because of its difficulty. See also Diamond Cutting
• Facet cutting – cutting small polished facets at predefined angles and positions on the upper and lower surfaces of transparent gem material. Light interacting with these two surfaces will produce brilliance and scintillation within the gem.
• Gem carving – a specialised area with far fewer makers. The techniques in this include engraving (intaglio), relief carving and free form carving.
• Cabochon cutting (cabbing) – a popular form of lapidary with many amateur makers. Stones are usually cut into a round or oval domed shape with a flat base.
• Gem tumbling – a simple and accessible form of lapidary that needs few skills. Rough stones are polished in a tumbler and are widely available as kits for hobbyists.

• Jewellery making
• Gem setting

• Training and recruitment issues – There are a wide range of short courses available and much skills exchange and mentoring happens within lapidary societies and clubs. There are few options for formal training and most will learn on the job.
• Supply of raw materials, allied materials and tools – High set up costs – the equipment and the raw materials for gem cutting are expensive and specialist. Cabochon cutting and gem tumbling are more accessible.
• Skills shortages at the higher levels – Some concern has been raised that there are skills shortages and a lack of new entrants into professional gem cutting and diamond cutting. Initiatives such as the training provided by the British Academy of Jewellers is working to address this.

• UK Facet Cutters Guild 
• Society of British Jewellers
• Institute of Professional Goldsmiths
• National Association of Jewellers 
• Scottish Mineral and Lapidary Club 

There are no specific qualifications to become a lapidary; most will pursue an apprenticeship as practical training is essential. Understanding the stone’s properties can also be gained by pursuing a gemmology qualification. Some short courses are available however: 

The Scottish Mineral and Lapidary club – Basic Lapidary course 

The Bespoke Jewellery Training Company – 2 Day Introduction to Stone Carving Techniques

(Lapidary Course)

Leith Lapidary Club workshops

Individual craftspeople:

• Lin Cheung – gem carver
• Charlotte De Syllas – artist jeweller and gem carver
• Ben Gaskell – artist and specialist in hardstone and precious stones
• Roy Kemp – lapidarist
• Ian Hammond – seal engraver and intaglio

Businesses employing two or more makers:

• Holts Lapidary – founder of Holts Academy of Jewellery, now the British Academy of Jewellery

Many amateur gem cutters are working at a high level and can be very skilled.

The British Academy of Jewellery (formerly Holts Academy of Jewellery) emerged from the jewellery trade in Hatton Garden and has developed accredited training and apprenticeships for jewellery makers. This was created in response to concerns about skills shortages and a lack of new entrants into the trade.

This craft uses minerals extracted from the earth – please read our ethical sourcing statement.

• Gem Society – History of Lapidary
• https://www.goldsmiths-centre.org/career-profiles/profiles-lapidary/