Heritage Crafts

Lacquerwork (japanning, coromandel and other lacquerwork)

A European imitation of Asian lacquer made using traditional materials such as shellac and pigment.

ENDANGERED
Status
Endangered
Craft category
Other
Historic area of significance
Europe - inspired by India, China, Japan and other Asiatic countries
Area practiced currently
London
Origin in the UK
16th century
Current No. of professionals (Main income)
1-5
Current No. of professionals (Side income)
1-5
Current No. of trainees
1-5

History

East Asian lacquer is a resin made from the highly toxic sap of the Rhus verniciflua tree, which is native to the area and a close relative of poison ivy. Lacquer is essentially a natural plastic, being highly water-resistant, acid, and heat to a certain extent.

Early origins – China:

Items covered in lacquer have been found in China dating to the Neolithic period, while lacquerware with elaborate decoration requiring labour-intensive manufacturing processes first appeared during the Warring States period (475–221 B.C.). As an art form, lacquerwork developed in China along two distinct paths: pictorial (surface) decoration and carving of the lacquer. These two techniques were rarely used in combination. Surface decoration took the form of painting or inlay; the earliest lacquered objects were coloured red or black with the addition of charcoal or cinnabar to the refined sap. Being such a volatile substance, very few colouring agents can be combined with it.

During the Han period, incised decoration was incorporated. Several other techniques evolved after the tenth century, including engraved gold (qiangjin), filled-in (diaotian or tianqi), and carved lacquer (diaoqi). The inlaying of lacquer with mother-of-pearl was developed during the Song period. In the sixteenth century, after around one thousand years, lacquer painting was revived, though rarely on carved lacquer.

Carved lacquer is uniquely Chinese, and it is unknown exactly when this developed. Lacquers thick enough for relief carving were produced no later than the Southern Song period (as known from archaeological excavations and from materials that were brought to Japan at the end of this period). This method flourished from the thirteenth to the fifteenth century.

Japan:

The earliest lacquer surface decoration known in Japan, other than simple designs painted on lacquered objects of the prehistoric period, is the gold and silver foil inlay of the Nara period. This technique was likely transmitted from Tang China (the dominant cultural influence on Japan at this time). This technique developed significantly in Japan. In later periods, other metals were also used for inlay in Japan, such as lead, tin, and pewter, alongside the use of gold and silver in powder form.

The Japanese exploited all properties of lacquer, including in liquid form for painting, as a solid surface that can be built up in areas, and as an adhesive, especially for gold and silver (in either foil or powder form). Maki-e (gold or silver) lacquer is one of the major achievements of Japanese decorative art.

Korea:

Lacquer surfaces were also decorated with metal foil inlay around the same time as China’s Tang dynasty, and during Korea’s Unified Silla period (676–935). Through the following Goryeo period, mother-of-pearl inlay became the dominant decorative technique for Korean lacquer. Gradually, Korean lacquer evolved its own distinct national style. The finest lacquerware of the late Goryeo and early Joseon periods heavily uses mother-of-pearl inlay, often in combination with tortoiseshell.

Lacquerwork in Europe:

Lacquerwork appeared in Europe in the 16th century in response to the popularity of imported East Asian goods by the Portuguese, Dutch and English. Lacquerware became notable in aristocratic homes. Due to the high cost of pieces and inability to replicate Asian techniques (using the original sap, which could not survive transport by sea), European craftspeople developed imitation techniques known as ‘japanning’, using resin-based varnishes (often shellac) to replicate the, glossy and dark finish of lacquer items, which involved drying with heat and polishing. At this time, ‘Chinoiserie’ was a popular style for interior decoration.

By the 18th century, japanning became widespread with major centres in England, France and Germany, creating their own ‘Westernised’ designs. Being less resistant to wear, European lacquer was more of a decorative technique.

Today, very few make a living as a japanner, and lacquerwork is largely confined to conservation and restoration. Popularity also fluctuates with interior designs (e.g. in favour of ‘glossy’ surfaces). Much ‘lacquerwork’ in the UK in the modern day is actually industrial.

Techniques

There are a wide variety of techniques within lacquerwork:

  • Japanning: A European imitation of Asian lacquerwork, using traditional materials such as shellac, and applied with a brush. It involves preparing a board with up to 25-30 layers of European lacquer to create a mirrored black surface to then gild images upon. The gilded gold/silver leaf silhouettes are subsequently built up with layers of shade and line before being finished with layers of shellac.
  • Penwork (white lacquer) – A technique intended to emulate ivory. Black ink lines are applied with a quill on a white pigmented background and many shellac layers are applied on top.
  • Coromandel work: la similar technique to japanning where a board is built up with layers of gesso and subsequently lacquered but instead of building images with gold leaf and powders, images are carved into the lacquer.
  • Tortoiseshell
  • Emulating true lacquer (urushi) 
  • Modern lacquerwork: A modern coating often made of volatile organic compounds or acrylic compounds, such as melamime, and applied with a spray.

Issues affecting the viability

 

  • Training and recruitment issues – The skills of lacquerwork are seriously at risk as few people are passing on their skills. While the 17th-century treatises do still exist, you need to have an understanding of japanning in order to interpret them.
  • Training and recruitment issues – West Dean runs postgraduate and adult short courses which give people a basic understanding of the craft – but you can’t teach how to do all the layers on a three-day course.
  • Other issues – cost/time – lacquerwork is extremely time-consuming and nobody wants to pay for the hours (so if an alternative, spray-on material is available then people will go for that).
  • Other issues – changing tastes – Chinoiserie goes in fifty-year cycles.

Support organisations

Training organisations

Today, lacquerwork exists primarily as a conservation craft – it is rare to make it for new items so it is taught from a conservation/restoration approach

Craftspeople currently known

A list of conservators with japanning skills can be found on the Conservation Register maintained by the Institute of Conservation.

  • Alexander Schouvaloff, conservator, maker and teacher of japanning. A former City & Guilds of London Art student as well as protegé of Margaret Ballardie.
  • Kirsten Walsh, conservator and maker
  • Bella Chipperfield, maker
  • Nancy Wilden, conservator
  • Hugi Hicyilmaz, Conservator
  • Pedro da Costa Felgueiras, specialist practitioner in Oriental and European lacquer and historic paint techniques
  • Tuesday Riddell – Alumna of City & Guilds of London Art School BA Fine Art and former Decorative Surfaces Fellow, is a fine artist using japanning and japanning techniques in her work.
  • Polly Bennett – Alumna of City & Guilds of London Art School BA Fine Art and former Decorative Surfaces Fellow, is a multidisciplinary artist and craftsperson using japanning techniques.
  • Rian Kanduth – Master gilder Rian Kanduth works with more than 18 techniques: water gilding, gesso, punchwork, oil gilding, verré eglomisé, japanning, penwork, coromandel, gesso cutting, sgraffito, pastiglia, patina, and many more.
  • Arielle Francis – Coromandel work
  • Peter Daoud – Trainee

Margaret Ballardie, Head of the Restoration Diploma Course at the City and Guilds of London Art School, sadly passed away in 2017. Margaret did much to promote the skill of japanning in the UK.

Other information

This craft uses products derived from animals and insects – please read our ethical sourcing statement.

Red List reviewers 2025

Our thanks go to our 2025 reviewers:

  • Rian Kanduth & Hugi Hicyilmaz, City & Guilds of London Art School
  • Tuesday Riddell
  • Pedro da Costa Felgueiras

We consult with a wide range of practitioners and organisations to review and update the Red List. Some choose to remain anonymous but all feedback is taken into account.

If you would like to suggest any changes or additions to this page please contact us here

National Lottery Heritage Fund
Swire Charitable Trust
Julia Rausing Trust
Maxwell/Hanrahan Foundation
Goldsmiths' Foundation
Dulverton Trust

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