The pleating of fabric goes back for centuries. Today, pleating is now primarily done by machine but there is still a specialist and couture market for hand pleated fabric.
Most natural fabrics will pleat well but the pleats can be lost in the washing process, so care has to be taken. Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester are most suited to pleating as they can be washed and still hold a pleat.
The fabric is pleated using a pattern or mould and steam to set the pleats. Patterns are made from two pieces of card that are folded and fit together accurately. There is a considerable amount of skill and accuracy in making a mould, with some intricate patterns taking weeks to complete.
The fabric is laid between the two pieces of card, folded to shape and rolled up tight. It is then placed in a steam cabinet to heat set the fabric in to the required shape. When the pattern has cooled, the fabric is removed and retains the shape of the pleating pattern.
Small business issues: The current rate of inflation and the energy crisis has had an impact on small pleating businesses
Market issues: The fashion industry increasingly relies on mass production and fast fashion, reducing the demand for bespoke hand pleating.
Market issues: Traditional pleating is often seen as a niche craft, making it harder to attract a wider customer base.
Competition with Mass Production: Competition from cheaper, machine-made pleating and imported products can undercut small businesses. Larger manufacturers may be able to offer lower prices due to economies of scale.
Skills issues: Hand pleating requires highly specialised skills, but there is a shortage of young artisans entering the trade.
Ageing workforce: This, combined with insufficient knowledge transfer to the next generation, threatens the craft’s sustainability.
Market issues: Many potential customers may not be aware of the availability of hand pleating services and small businesses may lack the marketing resources or expertise to reach new customers.
Individual craftspeople:
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